Pigafetta’s Log

Magellan’s fleet · the first voyage around the world · 1519–1522

Date—
Days out—
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The fleet
Clouded: Magellan’s imagined world (Schöner, 1520)Tap anything to explore
The StraitFolio xliv

Part III · The Strait

Chapter 12

The Strait

The strait (now the Strait of Magellan)

Threading the strait takes more than a month. The San Antonio, carrying much of the fleet’s food, deserts and sails home, and on 28 November 1520 the other three ships come out into the Pacific.

Late October 1520

The strait is a world of its own. Through the first narrows the land is low and bare. Then the mountains rise on both sides, “very lofty mountains laden with snow,” Pigafetta writes. There is often no bottom for an anchor, and the crews have to moor the ships by lines tied to the shore, twenty-five or thirty fathoms away.

It is spring, and at this latitude the nights are only three hours long. In the brief darkness the sailors see fires burning on the land to the south, dozens of them, from people they never meet. That land will come to be called Tierra del Fuego, the Land of Fire.

Pigafetta is enchanted by the place. Every half league, he says, there is a safe harbour, with water, fine timber, fish, sardines and mussels. Wild celery grows around the springs, sweet and bitter kinds, and they eat it for many days, having nothing else fresh.